Digital 'Push' Processing

What is digital push processing?

Low light photography presents a common challenge. When there is not enough light, you typically need a wide aperture and slow shutter speed to get a usable exposure. The problem is that slow shutter speeds often lead to camera shake, which makes images look soft or blurred.

Push processing offers one way around this. The technique has its roots in film photography, where photographers would deliberately underexpose their film and then extend the development time to compensate. This allowed them to use faster shutter speeds in dim conditions.

Digital cameras handle low light differently. You can raise the ISO setting directly in camera, which film photographers could not do mid-roll. But when you have already maxed out your ISO and still need a faster shutter speed, push processing becomes relevant. You intentionally underexpose the image and then brighten it afterwards using editing software.

Why underexposing can help

An underexposed image that is sharp can usually be recovered to a reasonable degree in editing software. A correctly exposed image that is blurred from camera shake cannot be fixed.

By underexposing, you can use a faster shutter speed than the light conditions would normally allow. This reduces the chance of blur caused by hand movement. You sacrifice some image quality in exchange for sharpness, which is often a worthwhile trade.

Modern digital sensors handle underexposure reasonably well, particularly if you shoot in RAW format rather than JPEG. RAW files contain more data, which gives you greater flexibility when making adjustments later. Most editing programs, including free options like RawTherapee or GIMP, can handle these corrections, though professional software like Adobe Lightroom tends to produce better results.

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How to apply the technique

Start by setting your camera to manual mode or using exposure compensation. Underexpose by one or two stops. One stop halves the light reaching your sensor, while two stops reduces it to a quarter. This allows you to increase the shutter speed proportionally.

Take your shot and check the result on your camera's screen. The image will look dark, but as long as you have not lost detail in the shadow areas completely, it can be brightened later.

When you transfer the image to your computer, use photo editing software to increase the exposure or brightness. Exposure sliders in RAW processing software give you the most control. Levels or curves adjustments work too, as do shadow recovery tools in programs that offer them.

Pushing an image too far will introduce noise, which appears as grain or speckles across the photo. Noise reduction tools can help, though their effectiveness varies considerably between programs. Professional grade software generally handles this better than free alternatives.

Practical considerations

This technique works best when you have exhausted other options. If you can use a tripod, increase your ISO setting further, or find additional light, those approaches will usually produce better results than push processing.

The amount you can push an image depends on your camera. Newer models with larger sensors tend to handle underexposure better than older or compact cameras. Testing your own equipment beforehand will give you a sense of its limits.

Shooting in RAW rather than JPEG makes a noticeable difference. JPEG files have already been processed by the camera, which limits how much you can adjust them without visible degradation. RAW files preserve more of the original sensor data.

Push processing is a compromise. You will lose some dynamic range and may see increased noise in shadow areas. For casual photography or situations where getting the shot matters more than technical perfection, this is often acceptable. For work requiring the highest quality, other solutions are preferable.

Digital push processing is worth understanding as one option among several for difficult lighting. Whether it suits your work depends on your subject matter, your equipment, and how much image degradation you find acceptable. Experimenting with your own camera will tell you more than any general advice.